fabrichut:

ladylawga:

Hi hi! I’ve decided to start a little series named “Sewing with Siren”. It’ll cover basic in garment construction and how to start basic patterning. (aka your first year of fashion school so hey if any of you are applying for school I got you covered). I hope this turns out??? Helpful??? To someone? LMFAO I know I ramble on a lot but I always thought that knowing about grainlines and stuff was important even for people who just sew for fun (cosplayers and people making their own lolita stuff) but there wasn’t really a resource for it. Next week we get to go over pattern drafting. OH BOY.

I think this series is going to be great, especially if you’re just starting out with sewing!

Data articolo: Sat, 12 Jul 2025 13:30:55 -0400

plutoknights:

Cosplay Tip - “Mock-up” for Grommets!

I dunno about you guys, but I can be a downright coward when it comes to doing permanent things on costumes. Especially the ones I’m really emotionally invested in. My Zidane 2.0 vest has been sitting in-progress for WAY too long, and one of the main reasons for that is because the next step was putting 42 grommets into the leather harness. Grommets = holes, and holes = NO UNDOING. So I put it off, and put it off…

Finally, I found a way to help me work up the courage to push through this part. I picked up some round stickers (which are almost the exact same size as my grommets) and used them to help me accurately visualize how my grommets would look. With these, I was able to put on my vest and place them roughly where I thought they looked like they should be on me. After that, I took the vest off, and proceeded to make adjustments to get more exact measurements between holes and make sure everything was even. Lift the sticker, move it. Lift, move. No holes yet! I drew dots in the center of the stickers to use as a guide for measuring the spacing, and I even used the dots as my target for the hole punching part. Because why not?

Once I was satisfied with the adjustments, I put the vest back on and had another look in the mirror. Happy with that, I was able to move onto the *gasp* permanent hole punching with full confidence that I knew exactly how my grommets were going look. And whaddya know - they came out looking exactly as the stickers indicated! 

Data articolo: Fri, 11 Jul 2025 13:30:45 -0400

bearsatan:

so for some reason blackwall has a scale mail(le)* loincloth. idk why, maybe people like to kick him in the balls or something, who knows.

if you’re made out of money and time (time being the same thing as money, so double money or double time, i guess), you can just buy scale making supplies from the ring lord or something, which can be pricey and take a while, or you can try to figure out some other way to do it.

i didn’t want to spend like $40 on scales that would look too real next to the rest of my fake foam armor, and i didn’t want to spend a billion hours weaving a skirt with rings and little metal pieces, so instead I decided to do it on the cheap and instead of like $40 i paid less than $5 for the materials i used since i had most of it on hand for my other armor, anyway. idk i think it looks just fine and is much less heavy than actual metal would have been. here’s a closeup.

i own a sillhouette portrait cutting machine i bought on sale from amazon a couple years ago, so i was curious if it would be any easier to do it this way, since i was making the shape in illustrator anyway…

so here’s what i did:

STEP 1- Vector scale mail(le) shape thing in Illustrator and scale (HAR HAR) it to how big i wanted it to be. the line up the middle is a crease line, which will make more sense later.

STEP 2- figure out how many scales i would need by arranging them in rows.

STEP 3- figure out cutting area i had to work with and arrange scales in rows on artboard.

STEP 4a- export to dxf format so silhouette machine can cut it.

STEP 4b- alternately, you can print scales onto paper to use as a template for tracing and cutting by hand.

(more under the cut so this doesn’t get long, including pics of what it looks like finished AND because i’m nice also there’s a jpg template at the end if you want to trace some scales AND the vector file i used to cut these in case you have a machine and want to make your own.)

Keep reading

Data articolo: Thu, 10 Jul 2025 13:30:45 -0400

the-sparrow-cosplays:

Okay, here’s the deal. I found this tutorial going around the other day on sewing zippers. And yeah, it’s good, but a lot of what it’s telling to you to do is unnecessary and, imo, more work than you need. (ntm it completely defeats the purpose of the specific type of zipper they’re using but that’s besides the point.) 

So! I’ve decided to make my own tutorial on how to sew an invisible zipper. 

Now, real quick, you’ll notice I just said “invisible” zipper. That’s because with sewing, you usually have one of two choices when it comes to zippers:

The Original

and

The Invisible

See why they call it invisible?

Now, usually sewing patterns will call for you to use an invisible zipper. This is great because one, it looks better, and two, it’s a lot easier to sew than a regular zipper. Which means the tutorial you’re about to see is going to be showing you how to sew an invisible zipper, since you’re more likely to use that rather than any other zipper anyways. If, however, you’d like to learn how to sew a regular zipper, just let me know and I can make a separate tutorial for that.

Keep reading

Data articolo: Wed, 09 Jul 2025 13:30:31 -0400

katamarija:

Ganondorf Hyrule Warriors Build

---

This is my biggest build to date, and I took a decent amount of photos while in progress as most of us do with cosplay, though I hadn’t planned on any tutorial. But since my recent Scout Harding bow post has gone over well, I figured WHY NOT SHARE. 

For reference, my Scout Harding post is HERE

Personally for armor, I prefer either foam only, or foam with worbla. I’ve tried both regular and black worbla so far, and I think overall I prefer the original Finest Arts, which is what I’ve used here.

PATTERNING

But anyway! I don’t have photos of this point in the process, but I start from card-stock/construction paper and masking tape to make the shapes of my armor. Because paper is even CHEAPER than foam, and I don’t actually like wasting my foam even though that’s cheap too. It’s all in the name of saving money and materials!!

After the paper versions have been fussed with, I turn to foam. I use hot glue or rubber cement as adhesive at this point.

FOAM BASE

The chest piece is actually three pieces– a chest piece, tucked underneath everything, a middle piece, and then the top which has the collar. I was already messing with some of the detailing and edging here.

I also knew ahead of time that I would need to be able to PACK this armor, so being able to break it down and nest the pieces within each other was really important. 

I like to do my edging in foam, rather than afterward in worbla, though I’ve seen it done both ways!

It’s hard to tell here, but these are the hip-skirt… bits? I actually kept these as foam, as I was afraid they’d be too stiff in motion if they were also covered in worbla.

These are probably my favorite parts of the costume– the gauntlets! This picture is already pretty far along in the process, but it’s still foam, and the top layer isn’t quite attached yet. I’d already made all the hand-guard layers and the top shapes, but I hadn’t yet hammered out those yellow details.

A note, I was not making all of these simultaneously, I usually work on one piece and then the next, though I get a little scatterbrained so sometimes I work on a few simultaneously. These swords were actually the last things I worked on, which is also why they ended being foam only, and not covered in worbla as I had sort of hoped. (I think I also had run out at that point.)

Here though, you can see the paper pattern, some pieces of the foam, and the foam-board innards for ONE of the swords. Eventually PVC pipe would be fed through the middle to create the hilt as you see next!

WORBLA

It’s finally time for worbla!

Being on a budget ALWAYS, though I’d love to use the sandwich method popularized by Kamui Cosplay, it just uses SO MUCH material, so 90% of the time, I fold it over.

Just use your handy heat gun and start melting and forming, and burning your fingers, and sculpting your details! Not shown here, but I like to use scissor edges or clay sculpting tools to push the worbla as close as possible to the foam edging!

Someday I will probably invest in something to protect my fingers….

A little more work done, and a cameo by my (then) very tiny kitten. The hip bits are done here, and I believe it was then I decided NOT to cover them in worbla.

A little unfortunate, but I don’t have many photos while making the greaves– though their design is SIGNIFICANTLY simpler than the gauntlets.

I already knew I would wear these boots, and so I built the pattern around that.

I chose to split it into 3 pieces– the main body, a kneecap, and a separate piece that would hook onto the bottom of my boots with elastic. D-rings with red cord (shown) would keep them on my leg.

Alllllmost done with all the worbla! You can see two things here- some extra foam inside the gauntlets (which remained foam for a little more ease in movement), and my soldering iron!

I don’t even OWN any solder and so far I only have the iron for battle damaging my armor– which I started on the main body here.

PAINTING

So obviously there was more work from the last photo until now, but I’ve shown most of the pieces in progress!

I know I know! I have no in-between photos!! 

But my general process is to use a buttload of layers of mod podge as primer, and then either spray paint or acrylic only depending on the effect I want.

For Ganon, it’s spray paint for the gold as the base, and acrylic for the blue because I wasn’t happy with the spray paint available in that color.

In the chest/greaves I started with the blue base on everything, then the gold edging, then the black low lights, and finally white/light blue highlights or designs (like the main chestpiece).

That chestpiece design I free-handed- I used a reallllly light pencil to make sure I was at least somewhat symmetrical and round (which I tend to be pretty good at) and then painted over with that light blue.

A little further along on the gauntlets here, considerably darker than the original gold.

This was the big stretch where I had the armor sitting in my living room basically 24/7.

Of note here, I’ve added detailing to the chest and greaves with Apoxie Sculpt, a 2-part epoxy that smooths and adheres VERY well to worbla. It’s already been painted gold, and I believe it did not require any priming.

The headdress was sculpted (by the plant), and both swords are mostly assembled at this point too.

Of course I have to try it on. Almost everything is complete at this point.

CLOTHING

A few things I haven’t mentioned are the clothing and hip-skirt/ hip-cape / butt-cape? Who knows.

The pants I’m wearing are about the only comfortable thing about the costume– they’re essentially parachute pants dyed a darker brown because I wanted to add more bulk to my bottom half as I am not terribly large (5′5″).

The butt-cape is from a red suiting fabric that I liked the drape of, and the gold pattern is some gold fabric ribbon I liked and sewed on.

The top is just a brown sweater I already owned, though it makes it very warm on top. 

Swords are done! They’re probably the least interesting, as they are not many pieces, and mostly just foam with black and gold details. The red “jewel” is more apoxy sculpt that I mentioned earlier painted with a red glass paint to give it more shine.

FINISHING DETAILS

There are a few fur accents on my arms and legs, which are doubled up pieces of faux fur, with a bit of elastic to slide them onto my arms and legs.is

The hip-cape and the hip foam bits are all attached together and made into a belt that I can strap to my waist.

The wig (a Suzi in Cherry Red from Arda that I snipped up some of the widow’s peak off):

The wig has sadly not kept this beautiful shape, but it was my first time ever styling a wig so I don’t think I used enough product.

There are a few (very unnecessary) belts that are most just foam.

I sewed a pair of brown gloves really quickly out of a stretch jersey.

The makeup is all Mehron Paradise in olive, black, and white, and then assorted (nothing special) eye-shadow I own.

And finally, there is a dickie (faux collar) I made to sit underneath the armor, so my neck doesn’t show. It’s made of some scrap black fabric I had, with gold trim, and a bit of foam is inside to keep that shape in the collar.

Here’s this wonderful selfie I took back during ACen while I’m getting ready. XD 

And that about covers it? Someday I might make the beard, but it’s low on my priorities right now.

Also yes, this cosplay is really really hot and uncomfortable since I’m literally covered head to toe. I’m usually incredibly sore the day afterward. I’ve only worn it to PAX Prime 2015, NYCC 2015, and ACen 2016.

If you have ANY QUESTIONS feel free to message me!

I post a bit more on instagram if you want to see more of my cosplay there (katamarija)

Thanks for reading! ~

Data articolo: Tue, 08 Jul 2025 13:31:04 -0400

ohicosplay:

Sanding tip! Put a strip of duct tape on the back of some sandpaper, fold the edges over, and cut the strip off from the rest of the sandpaper. 

Now you have a durable but flexible strip of sandpaper with handles. Grab the handles and sand back and forth without worrying about tearing the sandpaper. Also great for sanding dowels for staffs or spears; you can coil the sandpaper around the dowel and run it up and down without tearing the sandpaper or catching your hand. You can also cut the duct tape backing to whatever size you need.

Data articolo: Mon, 07 Jul 2025 13:30:59 -0400

pisaracos:

Wig Hack Wednesday #5 !
Have you ever wanted to use the same wig for that one character who can’t decide if she wants to wear her hair in twin tails or let her hair down? (Aka Nozomi from Love Live) Or, have you found a perfect wig color for your character but the wig just doesn’t come with a back-parting? Well, here is one way you can fufill your cosplay goals on a budget! Also good for when you want to re-purpose a wig for different characters.
For this demo, I’m using a Venus in grass green from Arda Wigs. I love this color and the length is perfect for Mallow from Pokemon Sun and Moon. My goal is to add a back-parting to the Venus base wig but make it detachable in case I wanna use the wig for other cosplay.
- Part the wig down the middle in the back, and clip the hair away on each side. Cut the hair from the inside layers of the wig to use as wefts for this project. By leaving the outer layers uncut, when you tie the wig into twin tails or let the hair down completely, it will hide the trimmed part
- Use Tacky glue (or other glue that dries clear but flexible) on the tip of a small piece of hair. Use your fingers to squeeze the hair flat to make sure the glue covers all of the hair on the tip of that piece. Wait until it almost dries
- Put more glue in the back side of the piece of hair by the tip. Press the hair piece down onto a strip of soft felt sheet. I happened to find a nude colored one that matched me, but you can use acrylic paints to get the level of color you want (paint the felt strip prior to the start of the project) Also, I find that holding up the felt strip and pressing the glued hair down allow more control and help create more “curve” shape from the center part
- Once you finish gluing hair down on the whole felt strip, turn it over, and hand-sew some wig clips on the back side. 1 inch spacing between each wig clip worked well for me. You’ll need about 4-5 wig clips for the whole felt strip
- Now you can clip the felt strip onto the main wig in the back. Make sure you leave two small pieces of hair from the main wig at the top where your felt strip would go
- Clip the felt strip in place. Make sure it doesn’t come off when you tuck on it. Take the little piece of hair from the main wig that you left out earlier, and section it in half on each side
- Criss-cross the hair pieces to hide the “seam” of the top of the felt strip
- Comb and blend the hair from the main wig with the hair from the felt strip, and tie your twin tails
- You can unclip the felt strip later and comb down the hair to use the same wig as a normal long wig!
Another good thing about this method is that you can use your felt strip for other projects if you buy other wigs from the same company later and in the same color. Or, you can turn an ombre wig into twin tail style for J-fashion shoot and wear the wig as a long wig the next time. This is not the “best” way to do back-parting, but I wanted to focus on being cost-effective and easy enough for beginners to attempt. Have fun wiggin’!

Data articolo: Sun, 06 Jul 2025 13:30:36 -0400

mimicosplays:

hope it can be helpful to someone~

Data articolo: Sat, 05 Jul 2025 13:30:33 -0400

elicatherogue:

Okay, so I’ve been doin this nonsense for about 8 years now and here are my 10 biggest tips for anyone else doing this sadistic hobby (This is a bit geared towards people who make costumes just FYI. I will post another more geared for beginners or those who buy later)

1) Remember Why You Do This.

Maybe you showed up to con and were 1 of 74 Jinx’s. Or maybe your costume wasn’t as accurate as someone else’s. Or maybe it feels like everyone else made theirs and you bought yours. So what? Did you have fun? Did you meet friends, and/or bond with the people you came with? Unless you’re in the contests, remember that it ISN’T a contest. And even the contests are meant to be fun. Alternatively, don’t let any elitist fans ruin your fun.

2) Don’t Take Yourself So Seriously.

Remember that being a cosplayer doesn’t make you ‘more’ of a fan than someone who doesn’t. Remember that you do this for your own enjoyment and that is all that matters. Spend as long or as little as you want on a costume, end a con with 20 silly selfies and some new friends, compliment that other cosplayer in the same outfit because you clearly both have something in common, don’t think of them as competition.

3) Don’t Be Afraid to Ask for Help.

Parents, siblings, teachers, friends, neighbors, craft store employees, theater teachers, art teachers, people online. There are tons of people who could offer help with even little things like what glue to use on foam that needs heatshaping(non-flammable x-treme elmers glue is nice) , what paint to use on leggings (apparently fabric paint stretches with it just fine), ask your grandma what stitch is best for rounded edges on cotton (idk), ask a JoAnn’s associate what thread to use. In my experience store associates are extremely helpful, even with things like a second opinion on matching colors.

4) Use Coupons.

Seriously. If you can, set up an email just for coupons. Going to Michaels for a 2 dollar little thing of paint? Use that coupon they emailed you and now it’s 75 cents and you have more money for other things like fancy fabric or idk food. Check if any stores have student or teacher or senior discounts if that’s applicable, then you’ll have a discount even without coupons. Especially good for big purchases. If you’re buying everything at once there is almost definitely some sort of 5 off of 30 type of coupon out there. If you are able, this is a good way to set up a savings for con or your next costume maybe, just look at the receipt, see how much you saved and set that much (or a part) aside for food/hotel/gas/merch.

5) Look at your Source.

No matter how well you know your character or your design do not go very long without looking at the source. Working on a wig? Have a picture in front of you the whole time. Maybe sketch out the different angles beforehand. Going fabric shopping? Stare at the original. If you print out a reference pic know that it may be slightly off. If you’re doing a costume where the color seems different in every shot (like Rey from Star Wars) then pick the one you like. If you can, consider coloring or painting a swatch of the color on an index card and bringing it with you to compare. Seriously. Keep checking the source when working. It’s equivalent to “measure twice cut once”.

6) Measure Twice Cut Once.

Even in crunch. I know, it’s stressful and scary and frustrating but you know what is more frustrating and scary and stressful? It being 8pm the night before the con and you just cut that last bit of fabric too small. Or your wig too short. Seriously. Just double check yourself.

7) Check Yourself Before You Wreck Yourself.

Outdated meme but useful tip. If you’re getting anxious to a difficult level, or exhausted physically or mentally  address it. Take a break. Take a nap. Eat a meal. Go for a walk. Watch an episode of that show you’re trying to cosplay. Play that game. Watch cosplay videos if you’re scared of losing motivation. Just don’t push yourself too hard or you risk messing up parts of your costume and more importantly, you risk hurting yourself. Don’t work until you accidentally stab yourself with a hot iron and have a panic attack. Would you rather spend 15 minutes playing with your cat or crying and bandaging yourself?

8) Use It.

Found some fabric you love for that SnK skirt thing, but it’s infused with glitter?Who cares, use it. Every cosplay you have seen of Red Hood has a lot of leather and cargo pants but you want skinny jeans and suede? Use it. The costume is for you. Make it how you want. To quote the great Hilary Duff “Why Not?” Also, go listen to that song if you need encouragement. 

9) Enjoy The Whole Process.

Maybe it is redundant at this point but seriously. Have fun. Not just at the con, party, photoshoot, meetup etc. Have a wig styling party. You finished that jacket? Nice, wear it out shopping and be proud. Make a playlist for each character you work on or general motivational music. 8-tracks.com is great for this too. Test those seams/that hairgel/ those shoes/ flexibility by putting on your jam and dancing around. Send snapchats to your friends when you test your make up. Skype your aunt to show off that circle skirt. Put your hat on your dog. 

10) Procrastination isn’t Great.

Probably don’t put off making your costume by making a list of tips for other people.

Data articolo: Fri, 04 Jul 2025 13:30:27 -0400

pisaracos:

Wig Hack Wednesday #7!

So, many of you guys are probably familiar with the wire+tape method to make drill curls in wigs. But did you know you can also use wire+tape for spikes? You can get more natural-looking spikes that won’t flop over time with this method. And you won’t have to spend hours glueing hair down on a foam core. This method is good for long spikes that stick outward like Axel from Kingdom Hearts, or Aigami from Yu-Gi-Oh! In this tutorial, I used a Vegas base wig in Dark Blue from Arda Wigs
Here are the steps:

- Section off hair for the spike. Cut a piece of floral wire in the length you need for the spike plus extra 1 inch (you will know why later). And sandwich the wire between two strips of clear heavy-duty packaging tape. Trim the tape down to long triangle shape
- Divide the hair you parted eariler into two sections and clip them away (make sure the top section has more hair than the bottom). Stick the end tip of the wire into the wig cap and have it poke out below. If you need to, use your shears to punch a small hole in the wig cap so the wire can poke through
- Bend the end tip of the wire up into the main wire to create a triangle leg that will help support the wire’s position. Hot glue part of the wig cap to the wire inside the leg to secure it
- Tease the inner layer of hair from each half of the spike with a teasing brush or fine-tooth comb
- Comb out the outer layer of the spike to clean it up. Put glue on the wire and press down the top section of the spike first
- Do the same for the bottom section of the spike
- Trim more layers near the tip of the spike to create more dimension
- With a flat iron on medium heat, flip the end of the spike to shape it, hold until it cools
- Comb the outer layer of the spike, spray it in place with Got2B spray, and use Got2B glue or Tacky glue to secure the tip

And that’s it! Enjoy your cool spikes with minimal effort. I hope this was helpful to you guys. :D

Data articolo: Thu, 03 Jul 2025 13:30:51 -0400

Reference *front


Basic Pattern

curioustocosplay:

Sailor Moon Fuku

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Here is a very good tutorial on the fuku for Sailor Moon. Think of the piece as a body suit with a skirt. Remember do not over complicate it. 

http://sparklepipsi.deviantart.com/art/Sailor-Fuku-Cosplay-Tutorial-331557052

Collar Tutorial

Happy Cosplaying!

Data articolo: Wed, 02 Jul 2025 13:31:37 -0400

purpsart:

Making your own witches hat is not incredibly difficult, so I figured I’d make a little cosplay tutorial on how I made my own lwa hat! It’s pretty self explanitory, but if there are any questions, don’t hesitate to send me a message (:

Data articolo: Tue, 01 Jul 2025 13:30:55 -0400

britishheichou:

A short tutorial on how to apply a beard for any cosplay. I use it for France and Scotland for example. It’s easy and cheap as well ^^
So here some details:
1. Apply eyeshadow as a base for the beard. Make sure the colour fits the hair and is not too vibrant.
2. Apply glue to the area. Make sure to only use glue that is safe for your skin. I used eyelash glue.
3. Apply the hair in the direction of the hair growth. I use leftovers from my wigs, but you can also get some online. For curly beards felt works just fine
4. Cut the hair down with some scissors and make sure not to cut yourself ♡

This beard can only be worn once but it will last all day with a strong glue. The method is quite messy though so don’t wear your full cosplay while applying it. And it might scratch a bit (but it’s totally worth it)

Data articolo: Mon, 30 Jun 2025 13:30:58 -0400

amynchan:

saint-ripu:

jumpingjacktrash:

komomocosplay:

You’ll find them on most strapless bridal gowns, if the style allows for it, but you wont see much mention of them online.

I haven’t been able to find any tutorials, no explanation, just the occasional reference on a bridal site. Sometimes they’re wrongly called a waist stay, other times I’ve seen them called an elastic bustier, but Juliet strap is what we call them, and its less confusing. The manufacturers who make our dresses for us (I work with a bridal designer) have never been confused when we asked for a Juliet strap in a dress.

Its a wide strap of elastic thats sewn into the side seams and has a closure like a bra band. I’ve seen them up to about 8 inches wide, the one in the picture is about 3.

What does a Juliet strap do? It holds the front of the dress to you! If its wide enough, it will also act as a bit of a corset. 

The strap helps hold the front up, and against your body. And keeps the movement of the front to a minimum. If you’re worried about a dress falling down, or not giving enough support in the front, its an easy alteration that will improve the fit. however, It works best with boning.

It would be the perfect addition to a bunny suit, or strapless dresses like Neo Queen serenity. 

so THAT’S how wonder woman doesn’t fall out

OH MY GOD THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING .

I WAS SO CONFUSED ON HOW STRAPLESS DRESSES STAY UP!!!!

Literally, I tried one with one strap and it didn’t have this and it felt like one of the most awkward events of my life. ;-;

Data articolo: Sun, 29 Jun 2025 13:30:48 -0400

elisescostumes:

While working on my Eleanor Guthrie cosplay, I researched how to do smocking with a sewing machine (rather than by hand) I’m quite pleased how it turned out, and I thought I’d share a little tutorial. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to reach out! 

What you’ll need:

• Sewing machine with decorative stitches
• Embroidery thread (I used GĂźtermann Sulky Cotton Multicolor in grey/beige tones)
• A ruler or measuring tape
• Chalk or disappearing marker

1.  First, you must decide on your ratio (how much fabric you will gather), and mark your gathering stitches lines. I went for a 1:3 ratio and marked lines 18cm long. My desired final gathered length is 6cm. My lines are 1.5cm apart, but you can experiment with lines closer or wider apart for a different effect.

2.  After sewing a long gathering stitch on each line that you marked in step 1, gather your fabric down to the length you decided in the first step (in my case, 6cm). Press your fabric to set the pleats.

3.  Go back to your sewing machine and sew decorative stitches _between _each gathering line. This will permanently set the pleats. Note: smocking isn’t elastic like shirring is, don’t confuse them! They kinda look the same and they both reduce the width of your garment by gathering fabric, but they have very different in behavior: shirring keeps its elasticity by using elastic thread as the bobbin thread, while smocking is permanent. I see smocking as something more decorative rather than functional, like shirring is.

4.  Remove all your gathering stitches (the most tedious task of them all!), give your fabric another good press with steam, and there you go! Admire your beautiful smocked piece!

And done!

There are many other methods, including smocking by hand, but I hope this short tutorial will have inspired you to give it a try! Smocking is not difficult and the final result is sure to make a statement on your costume! 

Liked this tutorial? Don’t hesitate to share it! Sharing is caring! ♥

Data articolo: Sat, 28 Jun 2025 13:30:42 -0400

ministryofsillysuits:

Fabric Characteristics

Cosplay 101: Choosing your fabric

Choosing Fabric for Clothes

Choosing Your Fabric

Fabric the Difference between Costuming and Clothing

Fabric Glossary

Working with Stretchy Fabrics

Data articolo: Fri, 27 Jun 2025 13:30:43 -0400

misguidedtangents:

Misguided Tutorial : anime school girl skirt : Part 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5

Fabric Cutting:

Broadcloth: Hip measurement plus five inches long by five inches tall.

Interfacing: Hip measurement plus four and a half inches long by two and a quarter inches tall.  

Time to make the waistband! 

Step 14: Cut out the fabric described and photographed above. 

Step 15: Fold your broadcloth hotdog style and crease it with your iron. Use this crease to line up your interfacing on the fabric as shown. 

Step 16: Follow the instructions provided with your interfacing, and iron your interfacing to the broadcloth completely. 

Step 17: Fold and iron a Ÿth inch of the broadcloth on every side as photographed above. 

Step 18: Sew a straight line only on the short edges of the broadcloth. 

Step 19: On the “top” line of pleated fabric, pin your waistband fabric. It should line up with the center of your waistband fabric, where your interfacing ends. As shown above.

Step 20: Flip this over before sewing.Yes, your pins will be facing down towards the table as you sew. You want to sew your line as close to the edge of the waistband fabric as possible. 

Step 21: Remove the pins. Fold your waistband over the top of the pleated fabric, and pin as needed to keep it still. This is the “outside” of your skirt so take your time to make is smooth and straight. 

Step 22: Sew a straight line, close to the edge of the waistband fabric. Just like you did on step 20. Without a quilting needle, with a dull needle, or on a machine that needs oiling/maintenance, you may have a hard time going through all these layers. Listen to your machine and help it with hand cranking as needed.

Step 23: Test wrap it around your hips! Make certain the waistband overlaps a couple inches at least. You’re almost done! Only one part left to go.  

Data articolo: Thu, 26 Jun 2025 13:31:23 -0400

hobubba-bubbaho:

I’m really tired right now, but I’ve been looking at a bunch of cosplay tutorials and I’ve yet to see anyone mention Aleene’s Fabric Fusion as a sealant/top coat. It’s a glue meant for fabric, but I’ve used it for everything from craft foam to pax paint covered latex horns.

Basically all you have to do is get a paint brush and cover whatever you need to be shiny with a layer (watered down if you don’t want brush strokes) and let it dry for a day or so. BAM! Super shiny but extremely flexible protective coating.

The texture lends to a weird slickness, but it’s super easy to clean dirt off of and so far seems pretty unreactive to anything. I’ve used it on craft foam, acrylic, latex, and plastidip and there’s been no noticable chemical reactions.

The only cons I’ve found so far is the wait time for the glue to dry (a hastle if you’re doing watered down layers) and the cost. It’s about twice as much as mod podge where I am. However, for small pieces that absolutely need to be shiny and flexible, it’s invaluable!

Data articolo: Wed, 25 Jun 2025 13:30:53 -0400

queermaddscientist:

rawringthroughthetwenties:

queermaddscientist:

Get yourself a fabric store that will light your fabric on fire for you

No but legit I asked what the fiber content of something was and the guy didn’t know so he cut a chunk off and lit it on fire and felt the ashes and was like. Yeah this is mostly cotton with a lil bit of silk. And that was the moment I knew. This is it. This is the fabric store for me. Also that guy is marriage material. Not for me but damn some person is gonna be so happy with him.

Ok but this is actually one of the easiest ways to tell what something is made of! I did a textiles degree and one day as part of a class we all went outside with a pile of scrap fabric and set fire to the little pieces and recorded how they burned. We were given a chart that looked something like this to tell what each fabric was (it gets a little tricky is it’s a mix of fabrics though). Why did we do this? There is very little regulation in the textiles industry so a lot of materials are mislabelled as something they aren’t and sold for more than they should be, also sometimes people buy fabric second hand or discounted which doesn’t have any label at all. If you have a fabric you are having doubts about, cut a tiny piece off and do the burn test and you should know pretty fast what you are dealing with. Anyways your fabric store should be lighting things on fire because this means that they are actually checking what the fabrics are and aren’t trying to pass cheap stuff off as more expensive than it is.

Ooh! I knew it was a standard test but I hadn’t seen a chart as detailed as this thank you!

Data articolo: Mon, 23 Jun 2025 13:30:57 -0400

Bag Hair Fix: Bubbled Tops:

ardawigs:

Experiencing a mushroomed Magnum? How about a deflated Derek? Bag hair happens, but it can be fixed with your hair dryer! Our quick how-to video will get your wig looking fresh out the bag. ✨

Data articolo: Sat, 21 Jun 2025 13:30:51 -0400